Day 4 Leaving Split by ferry to Ancona

Our last day and we had to leave the apartment by 11.00. We had a nice breakfast of muesli, banana, yogurt, orange juice and coffee. We packed up all our things - funny they always take up more space. We left the apartment at 10.30 and put the key in the mailbox outside. It was a very convenient place to stay, apart from the two flights of stairs. We were opposite a park and a few steps away from the Palace and old city.

Inside the Temple of Jupiter - some nice carvings

First we went to leave our case in one of the luggage deposit places by the port. I wanted to visit the Archaeological Museum and we took a taxi, but it turned out to be closed (in spite of the website saying open). So we had to return to the old city. Expensive. Beware of taxis ripping you off in Croatia.

We walked to the Temple of Jupiter and paid to go inside. It was a very small place with some carvings inside. Then we strolled around the busy streets and came back to the No Stress bar where we had a beer and then lunch - I had a chicken club sandwich. The waiters at this bar are a bit grumpy in spite of the name. We sat there for quite a while watching everyone walk past - every age group and many nationalities.

The Aurelia took us back to Ancona overnight

We walked round the Palace cellars as it came on to rain. I bought some fruity soap for Laura. We decided to go along to the boat terminal and we collected our luggage and tickets for the return ferry journey. We leave at 20.15 on the Aurelia, a SNAV ferry. It was already in port.

We sat outside under cover and had a glass of lemonade. We heard the Croatia game from the crowd reactions - they scored against Turkey. At 18.00 we queued up to board the Aurelia, with just one passport check this time. It had an all-Italian crew. At reception on the boat they were very unfriendly, and we didn't get any help to find our cabin, up lots of stairs. We couldn't get the door to open as it was damaged and the steward was sullen. The cabin was nice but small, and we had a big window with a view.

Sunset on leaving Split

We were welcomed for dinner in the restaurant, and I ordered risotto with porcini mushrooms; Richard had pasta with swordfish. We had some nice Roero Arneis white wine too. I also had a slice of berry fruit tart for dessert. We were able to pay by credit card before leaving port. I was also asked to write in the guest book about the food.

In our cabin we found there was no TV signal and there was no soap in the bathroom. I had a shower and we had an early night but I had a very disturbing dream.  I set my phone alarm for 6am.

Day 2 in Split

The Roman Katedrala was converted to a church

On Friday we woke up to torrential rain. We were happy to have breakfast in our apartment with crunchy muesli, banana and coffee.  I finished my book, A Tomb in Turkey by Simon Brett. It was very entertaining. We watched Federer win at Stuttgart on Eurosport 2.

We decided to explore the Katedrala and crypt. We walked down through the Iron Gate, sharing an umbrella. The marble paving stones in the palace were slippery underfoot. We paid to go in the octagonal cathedral which was undergoing renovation. It was formerly Diocletian's tomb and was converted into a church later. There wasn't very much to see so we went into the crypt which was even less impressive.

Richard in the crypt

Then we went for a coffee at the No Stress bar but I had a sore throat so we went back to our room and had a long rest. For lunch we ventured out again into the wet streets and found a fish bar, Zlatna Rebica, where we shared squid and chips and had a beer. It was quick and tasty.


The weather brightened and we walked out of the west side of the Palace and down to the Riva or promenade. We visited St. Francis Church, rather plain, and had an ice cream under the palm trees. We enjoyed looking at all the boats.

Back at the apartment I rested again while Richard went to the local shop for more water and some yogurts.

Sunny afternoon on the Riva

We had dinner at Pizzeria Portas just inside the Golden Gate, with some nice red wine.We were lucky to get a good table on the garden terrace.